THE LEGEND OF SAILOR JERRY | TATTOO MASTER NORMAN COLLINS

 

sailor jerry tattoos

If you don’t know who Sailor Jerry is– you don’t know tattoos. Norman “Sailor Jerry” Collins (1911-1973) is considered the foremost American tattoo artist of his time, and defined the craft in two eras– BSJ and ASJ (before and after Sailor Jerry). Arguably, he did more for the ancient art of tattoo than most any other single person.

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At age 19, Sailor Jerry enlisted in the US Navy. It was during his travels at sea that he was exposed to the art and imagery of Southeast Asia. Artistically, his influence stems from his union of the roguish attitude of the American sailor with the mysticism and technical prowess of the Far East. He maintained a close correspondence with Japanese tattoo masters during his career.

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Sailor Jerry regarded tattoos as the ultimate rebellion against “the Squares”. His legendary sense of humor is oft reflected in his work– but he was never one to compromise his professionalism or take his craft and responsibilities lightly.

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Sailor Jerry’s first studio was in Honolulu’s Chinatown, then the only place on the island where tattoo studios were located. His work was so widely copied, he had to print “The Original Sailor Jerry” on his business cards. There’s a guy up in Canada that goes by the same name, but don’t be fooled– although he’s good in his own right, he ain’t the original Sailor Jerry.

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Sailor Jerry remained a sailor his entire life. Even during his career as a tattoo artist, he worked as licensed skipper of a large three-masted schooner, on which he conducted tours of the Hawaiian islands. Sailing and tattooing were his only two professional endeavors.

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Sailor Jerry went out of his way to mentor those tattoo artists whose talents and attitude he respected, among them tattoo legends Don Ed Hardy and Mike Malone, to whom he entrusted his legacy of flash designs. He also railed against flashy tattoo artists such as Lyle Tuttle, and what he called “hippie tattoo” culture.

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From his 20s to his late 50s, he stopped tattooing entirely as a part of a disagreement with the IRS. Believe it or not, Sailor Jerry only tattooed for approximately 12 years.

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In 1999, Ed Hardy and Mike Malone partnered with an independent Philadelphia company to establish Sailor Jerry Ltd., which produces rum, clothing and other goods. Some say that Ed Hardy sold his old mentor, Sailor Jerry, up the river– taking much credit for Jerry’s style and pocketing the dough. Sailor Jerry (and Von Dutch alike)  may be rolling in his grave.

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Originally there were few colors available to tattoo artists– Sailor Jerry expanded the array by developing his own safe pigments. He also created needle formations that embedded pigment with much less trauma to the skin, and was one of the first to utilize single-use needles and hospital-quality sterilization.

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Tattooing legend Norman Collins AKA Sailor Jerry

sailor jerry tattoos norman collins photo

Tattooing legend Norman Collins AKA Sailor Jerry

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VINTAGE LEVI’S 501 JEANS | AN AMERICAN FASHION ICON

1950s Levi's Vintage 501 - front. Courtesy of Warehouse website

 

1950s Levi’s Vintage 501 – front. Check the leg twist you’d get with old, un-sanforized denim.

1950s Levi's Vintage 501, back- Courtesy of Warehouse website.

Back view of a vintage Levi’s 501 jean.

Why do I love vintage Levi 501 jeans you ask?  Let me count the ways-

  • The capital “E’ on the red tab, introduced in 1936 and produced up until 1971.
  • The brown leather patch- changed to “leather-like” cardstock in the mid-late 1950s.
  • The red selvedge 10 oz denim woven by Cone Mills, North Carolina on 29″ wide looms.  I wish it were a little denser- but I’m not complainin’.
  • The incredible leg-twist that you get on a pair of vintage non-sanforized 501 jeans.
  • The great tracks produced by the selvedge outseams from wear and bruising of the denim.
  • The Arcuate stitching or “double arcs” on the back pockets- one of the oldest apparel trademarks still in use today.  During WWII it was actually painted on to due to government rationing.
  • The very narrow hem at the bottom leg opening, and all the great bunching and bruising from shrinkage and wear.

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