I had the pleasure of chatting with Sid Mashburn at the Warwick Haberdashery Show. He stopped by to see the Robert Redd line and hung out for awhile.
The S0510XX uses 100% Texas cotton which is famous for being a “rough” cotton due to it’s high amount of short fibers. Normally, the short fibers are removed to make a smoother fabric, but Samurai adds more short cotton fibers to make the yarn even rougher. The result is a yarn that is highly uneven in size, making the woven fabric very “slubby” (irregular). Moreover, while most jean manufacturers mix different cottons from various areas, Samurai uses only 100% Texas cotton in the S0510XX. Even the thread is made of 100% Texas cotton. This creates a jean that captures the essence and spirit of this tough Texas denim.
Like all Samurai jeans, the S0510XX uses 100% pure indigo with no fillers, using the maximum amount of indigo that the yarn can hold. Weighing in at 15 ounces, Samurai also maximized the tension of the weave, so that after washing, the denim actually becomes even more stiff and the weave even tighter resulting in a jean with unprecedented “atari” (fading).
This is just an incredible read from the January issue of Outside magazine. It’s all about mining for the vintage denim and duds of old miners!
Brit Eaton is the best of a curious breed of fortune hunters combing old mine shafts and barns across the West for vintage denim. He’s discovered $50,000 worth of clothes in a single day, and his clients include Ralph Lauren and Levi’s.
Junya Watanabe’s (of Comme des Garcons) Spring 2009 collection is a very fitted & fresh mix of American menswear “classics with a twist”. Collaborations with iconic prepster brands- Brooks Brothers, Levi’s, Lacoste and Baracuta made for some funky updates to familiar models, patterns and fabrics. What also makes it youthful is eye-catching denim pieces and cool hats thrown in.
Spike sez- “It’s the shoes.” I have to agree.
This new high-top from Nike is pretty cool upon first look- selvedge denim and copper rivets. The 2009 Terminator features 2 different denims on the upper with a navy leather toe cap and back heel. A copper rivet can also be found on the back heel like the ones found on a pair of jeans. I have to wonder if it is authentic selvedge denim, or stitching designed to look like selvedge.
Expected to be released Summer – Fall 2009.
Atelier LaDurance introduces blends of their premium selvedge denim against the luggage form. Two standouts are the Suit Carrier and Weekender Bags. Details are the prize in both of these pieces of luggage. These bags are made from 11oz denim and saddle leather which is produced in the same factories as the famous Goyard luggage. Both the Suit Carrier and the Weekender feature zip top closures, saddle leather handles, brass studded bases, and Vichy check linings.
Their sportswear is a little too modern and sterile for my personal aesthetic, but these bags are great. I do wonder if they are treated to control crocking (color transfer).
- 300 pairs produced / Serial Numbered
- 100% cotton 17 ounce Japanese selvage denim
- Raw Unwashed / Shrink to Fit
- Natural Indigo warp threads Interwoven with Bamboo Ink dyed weft yarns
- Dyed by KaseZome Technique (20 Dying Repetitions)
- Gold-plated Steel Tack Buttons
- Gold Leaf embossed Deer Leather patch
- Red Line Selvage intertwined with Gold and Silver Lamé threads
- Silk-screened Cotton/Hemp fabric pocket bags
- Comes Boxed with Small denim Carry pouch
- Made In Japan
- $665- Insane.