Paul Stuart | A New Space, a New Face

 

Paul Stuart is a brand that has always fascinated me.  They’re always very focused and true to who they are, unapologetically dandy, and have a very distinct flavor that is unmistakably Paul Stuart.  The Phineas Cole label, with it’s new corner shop on Madison & 45th, comes at exactly the right time.  It represents Paul Stuart speaking to the younger guy who wants a grownup alternative to the shrunken suit silliness that is Thom Browne, and many other’s, ilk.  Phineas Cole is respectful to timeless style, but in a way that’s approachable and relevant for the younger guy.  

Paul Stuart has always had a strong point of view, which has served them well.  It isn’t for everyone, mind you.  If you’re not well versed on the classics and the art of dressing, then you may be overwhelmed, or simply just not get it.  For me, it’s like being a kid in a candy shop.  I love what they stand for.  After all, many brands have learned recently that if you do not stand for something– you will fall for anything.  

And many of them have.  

 

Phineas Cole

Photo courtesy of Material Interest

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Polo-palooza

The stylish menswear team at Ralph Lauren has been getting a lot of press time on the blog scene lately. Feels almost like a guerilla P.R. campaign.

Jerry Lauren is a legend in menswear and if you know him, you’ve heard the following Jerry-isms–  “Regimentals for the gentiles” –pronounced regimentiles, as in regimental stripes & “The perfection is in the imperfection” –like the beauty and greatness of an old printed fabric is in the way that the screens are slightly off-register, giving it character and visual interest.   Today, designers will often engineer prints to look off-register for that old world, authentic flavor.  One of many tricks of the trade.

Jerry Lauren

J.L. via Mister Mort.  Can you name these other guys?

 

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Classic Roots

Poloclothing

Menswear designers new and old are tracing fashion roots and embracing brand heritage– whether it’s their own or borrowed.  Ralph is the true master of classic American sportswear, and no one is more in their element at this time than him.

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HOLLYWOOD ICON JAMES DEAN’S NYC APARTMENT

JAMES DEAN NYC APARTMENT

James Dean’s New York City apartment

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What’s better than a piece about classic Hollywood Icons and their old pads?

The bull horns and matador cape were of special meaning to Dean.  He had read the novel Matador by Barnaby Conrad, and for a while was obsessed with dramatizing it as an internal monologue without words, using just a few props.  Dean also loved to play his bongo drum along to jazz records late into the night.   He hung with a small, close-knit circle of actor/artist friends.  Among them was a young Martin Landau.

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New York Haberdashery Show

Robert Redd Haberdashery II

I had a blast “getting my Redd on” with friends at the Warwick Hotel today.  The Haberdashery Show starts Saturday in NYC, so all of us Redd extended family members” put in a fun day of folding shirts, dressing rigs and pinning boards to get ready for the event.  It’s personally rewarding to be a part of something special like Robert Redd.  I regret forgetting my camera, but Carol saved the day and snapped a few pics while we were setting up.  The photo above was taken in the afternoon before we were completely done, but you’ll get the idea.

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Known for their signature knit shirts in a breadth of color- Robert Redd  has now expanded their product range to include sportshirts, sweaters and accessories that are sure to please diehard followers along with adding some new.  Robert Redd is based in Charlottesville, VA and run by a couple of great guys- owner Robert Matheson and Eric Jones.  It’s a brand that believes in telling their story through beautiful product more than selling you their mark- there are no logos on Robert Redd shirts.  I know I’ve said this before, but they do a great knit shirt with a self-collar and open sleeve- The Charles.  

Robert Redd is definitely a brand  whose time has come– so you have my permission to get a Redd on for the ladies.

Link to Robert Redd “Charles” shirt

Samurai 15oz 10 Year Anniversary Jeans

Samurai 15oz 10 Year Jeans

The S0510XX uses 100% Texas cotton which is famous for being a “rough” cotton due to it’s high amount of short fibers.  Normally, the short fibers are removed to make a smoother fabric, but Samurai adds more short cotton fibers to make the yarn even rougher.  The result is a yarn that is highly uneven in size, making the woven fabric very “slubby” (irregular).  Moreover, while most jean manufacturers mix different cottons from various areas, Samurai uses only 100% Texas cotton in the S0510XX.  Even the thread is made of 100% Texas cotton.  This creates a jean that captures the essence and spirit of this tough Texas denim.

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Like all Samurai jeans, the S0510XX uses 100% pure indigo with no fillers, using the maximum amount of indigo that the yarn can hold.  Weighing in at 15 ounces, Samurai also maximized the tension of the weave, so that after washing, the denim actually becomes even more stiff and the weave even tighter resulting in a jean with unprecedented “atari” (fading). 

Link to buy at Blue in Green