From the desk of Contributing Editor, Eli M. Getson–
The term “luxury brand” gets thrown around a lot today, and as someone in the branding business, I can attest that every brand secretly covets this moniker as a way to charge more for products and services around the world and dupe the masses into even more consumption. Yet, somewhere along the way, I think we lost sight of what true luxury is and we bought into a lot of superficial hype about what constitutes luxury.
In the last few years, when ostentatious displays of wealth became a sorry substitute for understated class, it became harder and harder to sift through all the junk. A luxury in its purest form, so the thought goes, is not a necessity; it just makes life more fun to live and delights you in small ways. I think I derive pleasure from certain things because I like that they are well made, have a story behind them, and most importantly are not out there for mass consumption– I get a small thrill knowing that not everyone has it. You can call it small batch, artisanal, or limited edition– all would apply.
I like the term “Heirloom Brand” — the idea that true luxury is something you can pass on to the next generation and have it be as relevant as when it was first purchased. With that in mind, I recently interviewed Jen Guarino, one of the principals of the bag maker J.W. Hulme, a 105 year old institution in St. Paul, Minnesota where they have forgotten more about the making of the best quality canvas and leather bags then most of us will ever know.
The J.W. Hulme Classic Oxford Field Messenger (washed)
I’m curious about something, why with a rough economy and a consumer who rationalizes every penny, why would you get into this business?
Yeah, I know, you can start any kind of business but when my partner and I found JW Hulme it was so solid, so real, so true– it was just the right fit. When we first saw the factory we were stunned by the level of skill these artisans have– you just can’t find this type of history or knowledge in people anymore. We recognized this as a huge asset and bought it in 2003. Prior to that JW Hulme was a 100 year old manufacturing company sitting on its heritage– dating back to WWI. We just recognized a diamond in the rough.
Incredible, so you’re saying this company that makes some of the finest bags in the world was just sitting up in St. Paul and no one knew about it?
The history of the brand, I guess like all great American brands, was that of a manufacturer. The Hulme Brothers started their business making tents for the War department during WWI and WWII. After the Second World War ended, they made awnings for Minneapolis society and began to make gear bags for Minnesota sportsmen. The company really served as a manufacturer for brands like Orvis and Gokey. We had all the craftsmanship under our roof, we just chose to celebrate it as uniquely our own.
The J.W. Hulme Classic Field Oxford Briefcase (washed)
How has the business changed?
The business was 80% wholesale, really a third party manufacturer. Today we are 80% direct to consumer and 20% wholesale to retailers. We are really tight with our consumers, short of our artisans, they are our greatest source of inspiration. We developed our Sporting Originals line from customer feedback. People would bring us their old Gokey bags and beg us to repair them. Every bag had a story beyond just something they used in the field. We replace their old bags– we just make them better then they remember. We use the same high quality canvas, leather, and webbing. The biggest difference today– we use real brass hardware, the originals were plated. These bags are heirlooms, they are priced to be that way, but we are not making a mass produced product. We are making a unique product that can be passed from father to son. The product has a history of getting better with use; we just like to think we made it a little better for today’s consumer.
What kind of materials do you use?
We source as much as possible from the U.S. All of our leathers are from U.S. tanneries (Horween anyone!), we are a big believer in American tanneries. The leathers we use are beautiful and they get more beautiful with age. The patina they develop is amazing. We use all brass hardware. Our canvas is made in the U.S. which is virtually unheard of today. We use the best Maring canvas in the world. We use materials that speak to quality and durability. Combine this with an artisan who hand makes each bag and you have something unique, and ruggedly beautiful.
Not just “Made in America, J.W. Hulme also supports American tanneries– using them exclusively.
How are you training the next generation of artisans?
We bring in master tailors, so there is a tremendous knowledge of sewing and construction– we have an apprentice system, the same system small manufacturers have used since the Renaissance. The apprentices learn from a master, so the knowledge is always getting passed on. One of our masters in an Inuit Alaskan, who learned to sew on seal skins, she teaches a lot of our sewers. Our environment is different than a standard factory, we don’t measure on quantity of output, we measure on quality of output. There is an incredible exchange of information and learning. We are not really a factory; we are more of an artist’s workshop.
I always ask this: What inspires the design?
Amazingly our archive is largely intact, so we really mine this and just tweak some of the original designs and update them for today. A lot of our inspiration comes from our customers– people call us constantly and describe a bag they had that they can’t replace and it sparks an idea for something new. The rest come from old films, vintage photos of travel, British Ghurkas, stuff like that. I really get inspired by the movies of the ’40s & ’50s. Remember, pre-plane travel your luggage was supposed to be rugged and elegant and last for a long trip. Travel was not nearly as convenient and people usually travelled for multiple weeks at a time– plus grand tours were a big deal then. I always get excited by old photos of Hollywood stars getting off a plane or train with all of their great luggage, dressed to the nines for their studio photo. It was a more formal era. I love the fact they we are bringing this to a younger audience and that this “old school” glamour and class is making a comeback. In today’s world you see the same five luggage brands all over. True luxury is having an extremely unique, beautiful piece that withstands fashion and is immune to trends. It is something that you hand down. This is really our passion at JW Hulme. This is truly a labor of love.
The J.W. Hulme Classic Field Duffle (washed)
i say screw the world BUILD a fenCe DRILL BABY drill & let them kiss OUR ass..
buy & make america..
Thank you so much for this post! What an inspiration!
Great post, having seen this space, met the craftsmen who make these products, and personally use them, it’s nice to see someone and some companies still out there trying to make the best product they can stateside and employing people who have passion for their craft. Well done.
Kudos to them and their commitment to quality. But their duffels are priced at around $400.00. That’s a lot of money to spend for a duffel bag. I, for one, don’t have that kind of disposable cash to spend on a duffel bag. I’d be more inclined to go to a sporting goods store (Cabelas, REI, etc.) where I’d spend about a tenth of that for a decent duffel that would last a good amount of time.
I agree…..that is a lot of money for a bag that no one’s heard about, you can get them on Ebay for $59 bucks. If I were going to blow money on an “heirloom” duffle i’d go Italian or French , true old world style and quality with names that demand respect.
The vice-grip factory recently moved it’s production to China, now that was an innovative quality American product people could afford, use and hand down…someone needs to resurrect that factory or at least glorify it in some blog.
I appreciate quality workmanship and domestic manufacture, I really do. But the value proposition here is terrible.
Of course, that really brings it full circle to your intro, talking about what defines a luxury good. Arguably, a terrible value proposition is part of it. If you’re spending $890 on a leather duffle, you’re living a life of luxury.
Yep, or you could support another USA made company like FILSON or someone like that instead. Or you could do what I do and wait a couple months and buy one like-new off eBay still made in USA. I for one would rather have vintage made in USA than brand new cheap-o made in China. But, hey – people still shop at Walmart and complain about our economy at the same time, without getting the irony.
This is meant to be the last bag you will ever buy, and is priced accordingly.
Fantastic post. Along with some friends, earlier this month, I was able to visit the factory and meet the artisans behind these products. Your post does a nice job of explicating not only the attention to detail and the handcrafted aspects to Hulme’s products but also the importance of continuing, where possible, to support companies, products, and services that have remained stateside, in spite of cost to consumer.
Investing in goods and services based in this country has become an utter necessity; it’s only a matter of time. Buy American. Support your local economy, before it’s too late for us.
american made almost as good as union made
I covet those bags. Since my name is Hulme, aren’t I automatically entitled to one?
Just to clarify, Gokey, which is mentioned in this article as “now defunct” is very much alive and producing benchmade boots and shoes, luggage, belts, and other leather goods in their Tipton, Missouri factory. Orvis owns the brand and the factory, and Gokey products are available through them.
I’m 31 now, & I truly believe things were done much better in past, & China has a lot to do with that. Of course the article starts talking about luxury & that sure means high prices.
But you can still find artisan’s products that are not so expensive. I say but from the smallest factory / maker possible, & DON’T BUY CHINESSE.
Greetings from Argentina!
Some good comments from everyone. Couple things to think about:
1. Value and luxury are always in the eye of the beholder. For one person it is an $1000 bag for another could be a $3 piece of chocolate. Depends on you.
2. The goal for JW Hulme is that this is the only bag you will ever buy. It get’s passed down, like a vintage watch or fine china.
3. Any company that supports domestic manufacturing, pays people a living wage, and supports their community should be praised.
Made in the USA used to be associated with quality, pride of place, and toughness. Let’s hope more companies get back to this and let’s support it. Does not matter if you buy new or on Ebay, you can still try to buy American. This is your heritage, please don’t forget it.
Quite a thought provoking piece….really wonderful. This is a very special blog.