The S0510XX uses 100% Texas cotton which is famous for being a “rough” cotton due to it’s high amount of short fibers. Normally, the short fibers are removed to make a smoother fabric, but Samurai adds more short cotton fibers to make the yarn even rougher. The result is a yarn that is highly uneven in size, making the woven fabric very “slubby” (irregular). Moreover, while most jean manufacturers mix different cottons from various areas, Samurai uses only 100% Texas cotton in the S0510XX. Even the thread is made of 100% Texas cotton. This creates a jean that captures the essence and spirit of this tough Texas denim.
Like all Samurai jeans, the S0510XX uses 100% pure indigo with no fillers, using the maximum amount of indigo that the yarn can hold. Weighing in at 15 ounces, Samurai also maximized the tension of the weave, so that after washing, the denim actually becomes even more stiff and the weave even tighter resulting in a jean with unprecedented “atari” (fading).
Link to buy at Blue in Green
This is just an incredible read from the January issue of Outside magazine. It’s all about mining for the vintage denim and duds of old miners!
Brit Eaton is the best of a curious breed of fortune hunters combing old mine shafts and barns across the West for vintage denim. He’s discovered $50,000 worth of clothes in a single day, and his clients include Ralph Lauren and Levi’s.
Junya Watanabe’s (of Comme des Garcons) Spring 2009 collection is a very fitted & fresh mix of American menswear “classics with a twist”. Collaborations with iconic prepster brands- Brooks Brothers, Levi’s, Lacoste and Baracuta made for some funky updates to familiar models, patterns and fabrics. What also makes it youthful is eye-catching denim pieces and cool hats thrown in.
Spike sez- ”It’s the shoes.” I have to agree.
This new high-top from Nike is pretty cool upon first look- selvedge denim and copper rivets. The 2009 Terminator features 2 different denims on the upper with a navy leather toe cap and back heel. A copper rivet can also be found on the back heel like the ones found on a pair of jeans. I have to wonder if it is authentic selvedge denim, or stitching designed to look like selvedge.
Expected to be released Summer – Fall 2009.
Link to Kix Files story
Atelier LaDurance introduces blends of their premium selvedge denim against the luggage form. Two standouts are the Suit Carrier and Weekender Bags. Details are the prize in both of these pieces of luggage. These bags are made from 11oz denim and saddle leather which is produced in the same factories as the famous Goyard luggage. Both the Suit Carrier and the Weekender feature zip top closures, saddle leather handles, brass studded bases, and Vichy check linings.
Their sportswear is a little too modern and sterile for my personal aesthetic, but these bags are great. I do wonder if they are treated to control crocking (color transfer).
Link to Atelelier LaDurance
Link to story from Limite Magazine
Thanks to Kitsune Noir for making my day. Continue reading
Back then, Wrangler jeans (and Lee as well, for that matter) used the same double arcuate stitch design as Levi Strauss on the back pockets. Tsk, tsk. I like the Wrangler coin/watch pocket shape and stitching in the picture above. It looks very clean and modern for it’s time. Wrangler was button-fly up until 1947 when they introduced a new model- the 13MWZ zipper front.
Link to Wrangler Company History
Good chunk of what you see here in the pics is true vintage.
Exceptional denim and vintage workwear reproductions.
Vintage boots from the 1920s-1940s.
Warehouse- True American Vintage and Vintage Reproductions.
Warehouse has stores in Tokyo, Harajuku, Ebisu and Machida.
Thanks to Repeat to fade. Continue reading
Artist Jackson Pollock painting in his Springs, NY studio --1949.
Jackson Pollock was a major force in the abstract expressionism movement, and a dark and moody maverick. He was undeniably an innovative artistic genius and more. His technique has been carefully studied and it’s been determined that some works contain properties of mathematical fractals, and that the works become more fractal-like chronologically. Some goes as far to speculate that he may have been aware of the nature of chaotic motion, and through his paintings was creating what he perceived as perfect representations of mathematical chaos- and all this more than 10 years before Chaos Theory was discovered. So much for the critics that casually dismiss his work as mere paint drippings.
A pair of vintage Levi's 501 jeans. Check the cool leg-twist you get from the old un-sanforized denim.
Back view of a vintage Levi's 501 jean.
Why do I love vintage Levi 501 jeans you ask? Let me count the ways-
- The capital “E’ on the red tab, introduced in 1936 and produced up until 1971.
- The brown leather patch- changed to “leather-like” cardstock in the mid-late 1950s.
- The red selvedge 10 oz denim woven by Cone Mills, North Carolina on 29″ wide looms. I wish it were a little denser- but I’m not complainin’.
- The incredible leg-twist that you get on a pair of vintage non-sanforized 501 jeans.
- The great tracks produced by the selvedge outseams from wear and bruising of the denim.
- The Arcuate stitching or “double arcs” on the back pockets- one of the oldest apparel trademarks still in use today. During WWII it was actually painted on to due to government rationing.
- The very narrow hem at the bottom leg opening, and all the great bunching and bruising from shrinkage and wear.
--Carl Chiara, design director LEVI'S CAPITAL E and RED COLLECTIONS
“I like the process- from a brand-new unwashed pair of jeans until they’re ready for burial. I really do wear them hard. I start off by doing a lot of squats to get the wrinkles in nicely. But the number one trick is wearing your jeans every single day and letting your sweat and oils start to morph the denim, so it becomes a very personal shape. I think the key difference with the 501 is that it fits around your body. I like the way that 501′s don’t follow your every curve; they evolve to fit your body. Also, as they move along, I repair them so I can get more wear out of them. They really do become a part of you. Once you break a pair in, there’s no alternative. You just can’t put on another pair of jeans.”
- Carl Chiara, design director LEVI’S CAPITAL E and RED COLLECTIONS